29 August 2011

Recent FA's from Lincoln Lake, Colorado

The last few weeks have been flying by. Lots of climbing, hiking, falling, shooting video, taking pictures and good times in the mountains with cool people. Can't go wrong.

Lincoln Lake has continued to be my destination of choice, with tons and TONS of possibility for new boulder problems. Ivo Penchev wondered into a cave a few weeks ago and found some AMAZING new lines. After brushing up holds, I was able to climb Life of Arete v8 (video of Patrick Fitts climbing the third ascent) and The Odyssey v9 for their first ascents. Ivo followed in suit with second ascents of each. Great new additions to the bouldering area!!

I was also able to climb a nice new slab line just up the talus from The Mothman Prophecies. It is now dubbed The EZ Slab v5. Located on the right side of a HUGE slab boulder, this one starts in between two chest-high boulders and climbs small holds for about 12 feet.. then exits right up an easy (walkable) slab dihedral. Go do it!!!
 The incredible / unpredictable days spent in the mountains (most of the time above 10K feet) are slowly coming to an end. As usual the August weather has been tough to negotiate; checking and double checking weather forecasts, humidity percents, wind direction and speed. Rain is almost an every day occurrence. BUT it's all good.

So much goes into bouldering here and it is truly amazing to be a part of the experience that is CO during the summer!!

Here's some pictures to recap the last few weeks : : :

Ivo Penchev climbing The Mothman Prophecies v4
Patrick Fitts on the 2nd ascent of The EZ Slab v5

Ivo Penchev climbing the 2nd ascent of The Odyssey v9

Resetting the Denver Bouldering Club (DBC)

Amazing end to a rainy day at Lincoln Lake, CO

 Until next time... keep the PSYCHE!!!
--- JG

08 August 2011

Alpine Areas

Had a goodie!! Went hard in the paint!! Tried hard...

Over the weekend, I got out to a few bouldering areas outside Denver. The plan was to hit Rocky Mountain National Park on Saturday, then (if not too wrecked from the long day) head to a few remote boulders at Mt. Evans the next day.

The day at RMNP was good. I drove to Golden to meet up with Ivo Penchev and Thomas Betterton (part owner of the DBC). The now very familiar drive through Boulder, Lyons and Estes Park went by quick as did the 45 minute hike into the Upper Chaos boulders. Got on Silven's boulder, The Seeping, which Thomas was able to hook up after an hour or so. Awesome roof boulder, but damn tough!!

Then it was off to try Riddles in the Park. After a while working out the moves, I was able to climb into the stand from the beginning. Definitely sparked some psyche! This one has two difficult opening moves which lead to around 10 more sustained movements on ok holds. ENDURO-FEST!!

Ivo Penchev on Riddles in the Park v12

After a quick stop at the infamous crimper-dyno problem, Friday the 13th, we decided to call it a day. A long hike, followed by a long drive and milkshakes at Mcdonald's made climbing the next day seem like some cruel joke.

Mt. Evans, CO (photo: Ivo Penchev)

On Sunday, after relaying some less than motivated messages to Ivo, I was forced to go climbing at Mt. Evans. Not really forced, let's just say energy was low starting out the day. I parked at Summit Lake on Mt. Evans and began the long hike down into the canyon, towards the Area D boulders.

I got there right around 3pm, just as the sun was starting to hit two out of the four main boulder problems in the area. After a quick warm-up on the much hyped but now broken Equitas (the left start hold of the sit is broken, the stand is still climbable at around v7) we headed over to THE highball in Colorado, The Nothing.

Ivo Penchev on The Nothing v8

Jeff Silcox entering the crux of The Nothing v8

Topping out at 30ft on The Nothing v8

The Nothing v8 is an amazing line. Perfect through and through. Jug start hold, difficult crux on perfect holds at 17ft, then an amazing diagonal break to the top with perfect bucket-sized hand holds.

 One of my favorite styles of climbing is trying hard on that first effort. You only get to try a boulder for the first time ONCE so why not make it worth while. One try, all your effort, climbing into unknown and sometimes uncomfortable territory.

I watched Ivo, Jaeger and Jeff climb on it for a bit then decided it was time to give a solid first effort. I pulled on and every movement continued to click until I was at the top of the boulder.

Climbing over the water on Slander v11 (photo: Ivo Penchev)
 We hung out at Slander v11 for the rest of the day.... another one of the best boulder problems in Colorado. Bad holds lead to a crux dyno off two quarter pad crimps. I surprised myself and was able to climb into the dyno from the start then somehow stick the dyno!! I fell on the next move, but it was amazing to do the dyno and see the realm of possibility opening!

Keep the pysche, until next time...