John Gass

10 July 2011

RMNP - 2011 Season - Day 1

Yesterday was a good one!

First day back in CHAOS CANYON (Rocky Mountain National Park) for the season. Snow finally melted out from a late snow in May so Ivo, Rob, CookDog and I headed straight to the Upper Chaos boulders to get down to business.

Clouds rolling in over Longs Peak, RMNP

As usual during the summer months, weather plays a role in every Chaos day. Despite on and off rain, we were all able to try hard and got a good day of climbing in.

After a good session at the El Jorge boulder where Rob and Cook hooked up both the Right and Lefter versions, we headed to the Pterodactyl boulder. Another amazing boulder in Chaos! After some figurin' I was able to climb the boulder from the "stand." I also was able to figure out the bottom moves and am looking forward to more attempts on that this season.

Ivo Penchev on Pterodactyl Stand V9

Ivo Penchev on A Thousand Shades of Green V9

Just got out of class and am looking forward to a much needed rest day.

15 June 2011

Update from Mt. Evans

Things have been rolling along here in CO. Finally got used to the constant hiking necessary to get to some of the amazing boulders in the mountains. Still pretty worn out and in much need of a few rest days.

Well, word got out that the snow melted at Lincoln Lake and the crowds are starting to arrive. Those first two weeks after Memorial Day weekend were super nice and low key, a lot like the climbing I am used to doing in the Southeast.

Its all good though. Here are a few pictures to keep the psych!!

Voges working out the moves on Big Worm

Vanilla Sky

If you are at the Evil Backwards boulder, turn around and check out this tall arete Ryan Silven and I cleaned. Ryan grabbed the first ascent and named it Thermopylae.

A new line that I cleaned up and climbed, now dubbed The Iron Mask.

06 June 2011

Lincoln Lake

AHHH, finally a much needed rest day.

I have spent the last four days obsessing over the Lincoln Lake sector of Mt. Evans. Waking up at 9am every morning and heading out to the boulders. Cleaning and climbing until 8pm then hiking out, feeling overwhelmed by the fact that I get to climb at an area like this.

Voges and Webb searching for new boulders

The initial few days of the season have been productive in the sense that many new boulders have been added already. Because the majority of climbers began going there after the snow melted last season, there are many boulders that are climbable in their current condition (lots of snow, making for mostly flat landings) that were not climbed last season. This is another detail unique to the area... Some boulders will be climbable only in the early season, some only in the late season!!

Endgame v7

First Day, First Minute - v6

War of the Insects - v9

Beggers and Doers - v6

Above picture : This small area is home to some of the recent development. A boulder that I cleaned and Tom Camillieri was able to climb sits on the left side. This one is named "Beggers and Doers" and sits at around v6. Jamie Emerson cleaned up a nice roof on the opposite side of the large boulder on the right. The right line is now called "War of the Insects" and registers in at v9.


Possible new problem, up the talus from Tangerine Man

Four months out of the year, the snow melts off and we climbers are allowed access to this unique place. In a world where we humans are considered "outsiders," bouldering brings on a new meaning altogether. Every trip down into the boulders is more like an adventure, not knowing exactly what you're getting yourself into.

It seems that after the harsh winter, many of the climbs need a bit of "re-cleaning." That being said, a large majority of the opened boulders are ready to go!! Only a few remain unclimbable due to snow, but I'm sure these will clear out in the next few weeks.

Along with a few others, I will be shooting video along the way and hopefully we can collaborate and release a nice Alpine summer bouldering short in the future. In the meantime, get out there and do a bit of searching!!!

30 May 2011

At Home On The Road: Joe's Valley..... and other happenins

FINALLY!!! Summer is here!!

For the next few months, the more motivated climbers in Colorado (and from all over the country) will be trudging up and down monster hills, snow and talus fields to get to some of the best boulders in the United States. Alpine season is a kind of treat in the sense that the majority of these boulders are only climbable for 3 to 4 months out of the year.

RMNP with Long's Peak in the background

Emerald Lake in Rocky Mountain National Park has been uncovered, climbed and then recovered in snow countless times. Climbers are staying true to the Park despite the bad May weather though. The re-emergence of Endo Valley has RMNPers just as motiovated as last year's Lincoln Lake aka Wolvo Land development. The opportunity to climb first ascents brings a renewed motivation and the simple fact that climbing on new boulders (especially in Colorado) is a treat. Check out Jamie Emerson's blog for info about Endo and (as always) a ton of interesting comments.

The Kind Boulder in early May 2011

This weekend marked the opening of the summit road at Mt. Evans. For many, this was a long time coming and over the weekend dozens of climbers descended on familiar territory. Lincoln Lake was a huge hit among the bouldering scene last summer and I can only hope that the same energy returns to the boulder field this season. For those that want to know the official elevation at the boulders is around 11, 500 ft.

This summer, like the last few, a bunch of buddies from the South East are heading out to test their skills on the granite boulders. We will be taking pictures and shooting lots of video along the way so stay tuned for a massive media dump!!

Enough spray about the CO scene.

Every Spring and Fall, climbers from all around the world gather in a small valley outside Orangeville, Utah. Joe's Valley has been known (for the last 20 or so years) to be home to some of the nicest sandstone boulders in the country. There is a sort of remote feeling that surrounds the area, making it a truly unique climbing experience.

Weather rolling into Joe's

I was able to make it out to Joe's a couple times over the last few months. Highlights of the trips include climbing Resident Evil (video here - thanks to Ivo Penchev), waking up to 3 inches of snow outside my tent and drinking a few beers at the local bar.

Check out a quick video I made highlighting the shorts weekend trips we made during the spring.

All for now...

25 April 2011

Five Ten shoe demo @ DBC

What: Five Ten climbing show demo

Where: Denver Boulder Club (directions)

When: 6pm - 9pm

Tomorrow night I am going to be running a shoe demo at the Denver Bouldering Club. Stop by and throw on a pair of shoes. Great way to make a final decision on those shoes you've been wanting!

Also, it is guest night at the DBC so discounted entry prices for all non-members.

01 April 2011

Spring in Joe's Valley

Although Spring is officially here, there are no signs of the changing seasons in Joe's Valley, Utah.

cleaning up the tent (Ivo Penchev photo)

Last weekend I met up with friends Sarah and Ivo on the side of I-70, outside Evergreen. We loaded up the car and left, driving through the Rocky Mountains and the Utah desert. We arrived at Joe's at 1am, quickly set up tents and got some rest. The weather was looking a bit questionable, but we decided to go with it. It had been an entire year since I had been bouldering in the valley and I was very optimistic going into the trip.

Over the next three days the snow got the best of us. I was able to climb a few problems including the classic Resident Evil. Here is a nice quick video Ivo threw together:

Joe's Valley Bouldering - Playmate of the Year V9, Resident Evil V10 & Trent's Mom V11 from Ivo Penchev on Vimeo.

All in all I came away climbing Nerve Extension(v9), The Resurrectionist(v8), Resident Evil(v10) and Pocket Rocket(v6). Nice to clean up some classics, but most of the effort on the trip went into trying Worm Turns and Trent's Mom. Both problems are difficult, but fall within the category of what I am capable of climbing. Hopefully I can get back and finish them off soon.