At Home On The Road: Joe's Valley..... and other happenins

FINALLY!!! Summer is here!!

For the next few months, the more motivated climbers in Colorado (and from all over the country) will be trudging up and down monster hills, snow and talus fields to get to some of the best boulders in the United States. Alpine season is a kind of treat in the sense that the majority of these boulders are only climbable for 3 to 4 months out of the year.

RMNP with Long's Peak in the background

Emerald Lake in Rocky Mountain National Park has been uncovered, climbed and then recovered in snow countless times. Climbers are staying true to the Park despite the bad May weather though. The re-emergence of Endo Valley has RMNPers just as motiovated as last year's Lincoln Lake aka Wolvo Land development. The opportunity to climb first ascents brings a renewed motivation and the simple fact that climbing on new boulders (especially in Colorado) is a treat. Check out Jamie Emerson's blog for info about Endo and (as always) a ton of interesting comments.

The Kind Boulder in early May 2011

This weekend marked the opening of the summit road at Mt. Evans. For many, this was a long time coming and over the weekend dozens of climbers descended on familiar territory. Lincoln Lake was a huge hit among the bouldering scene last summer and I can only hope that the same energy returns to the boulder field this season. For those that want to know the official elevation at the boulders is around 11, 500 ft.

This summer, like the last few, a bunch of buddies from the South East are heading out to test their skills on the granite boulders. We will be taking pictures and shooting lots of video along the way so stay tuned for a massive media dump!!

Enough spray about the CO scene.

Every Spring and Fall, climbers from all around the world gather in a small valley outside Orangeville, Utah. Joe's Valley has been known (for the last 20 or so years) to be home to some of the nicest sandstone boulders in the country. There is a sort of remote feeling that surrounds the area, making it a truly unique climbing experience.

Weather rolling into Joe's

I was able to make it out to Joe's a couple times over the last few months. Highlights of the trips include climbing Resident Evil (video here - thanks to Ivo Penchev), waking up to 3 inches of snow outside my tent and drinking a few beers at the local bar.

Check out a quick video I made highlighting the shorts weekend trips we made during the spring.



All for now...

Five Ten shoe demo @ DBC

 

What: Five Ten climbing show demo

Where: Denver Boulder Club (directions)

When: 6pm - 9pm

Tomorrow night I am going to be running a shoe demo at the Denver Bouldering Club. Stop by and throw on a pair of shoes. Great way to make a final decision on those shoes you've been wanting!

Also, it is guest night at the DBC so discounted entry prices for all non-members.

Spring in Joe's Valley

Although Spring is officially here, there are no signs of the changing seasons in Joe's Valley, Utah.

cleaning up the tent (Ivo Penchev photo)

Last weekend I met up with friends Sarah and Ivo on the side of I-70, outside Evergreen. We loaded up the car and left, driving through the Rocky Mountains and the Utah desert. We arrived at Joe's at 1am, quickly set up tents and got some rest. The weather was looking a bit questionable, but we decided to go with it. It had been an entire year since I had been bouldering in the valley and I was very optimistic going into the trip.

Over the next three days the snow got the best of us. I was able to climb a few problems including the classic Resident Evil. Here is a nice quick video Ivo threw together:

Joe's Valley Bouldering - Playmate of the Year V9, Resident Evil V10 & Trent's Mom V11 from Ivo Penchev on Vimeo.

All in all I came away climbing Nerve Extension(v9), The Resurrectionist(v8), Resident Evil(v10) and Pocket Rocket(v6). Nice to clean up some classics, but most of the effort on the trip went into trying Worm Turns and Trent's Mom. Both problems are difficult, but fall within the category of what I am capable of climbing. Hopefully I can get back and finish them off soon.

Worm Turns (Ivo Penchev photo)

Jitterbug Perfume (Ivo Penchev photo)

I shot some footage, just haven't been able to get around to editing yet. Keep an eye out for a short Joe's video soon.

weather moving in

Big Joe boulder

session at Worm Turns

Ivo getting it done; cleaning up Trent's Mom

Ivo starting off on the send of Trent's Mom

T Camillieri climbing Trent's Mom

All for now.

JG

Video - 10 Days on the Front Range

So here it is.

Another 10 day segment.

This time around the video showcases bouldering all over the Front Range.

Screenshots - 10 Days on the Front Range

Things have been rolling along in Denver, CO. A few buddies from the Southeast are here hanging out, climbing and enjoying some time away from school. Out of the 10 days they have been here, we have been out at the rocks 8 of those days. PHEW! Definitely needing a few rest days.

While out at the rocks (besides sending quite a few boulder problems and having some good laughs) we have been hard at work shooting a video now dubbed "10 Days on the Front Range." The video will showcase many of the quality boulders within a few hours of Denver. Areas include Clear Creek Canyon, Boulder Canyon, Eldorado Canyon, Poudre Canyon and Matthew-Winters Park.

Here's a few shots to keep everyone syked for the video (planned release in the next week or so)

Brion Voges - lower crux of Darkwaters

Hard Boiled - Boulder Canyon

Brad Weaver on the crux dyno of Elegant Universe

Bambi - Matthew Winters Park

Spicy topout on Bambi / Fantasia

Circadian Rhythm - Poudre Canyon

Rarely climbed Suspension of Disbelief - Eldorado Canyon

That's it for now, keep an eye out for the video on my blog as well as on Brion's and Brad's in the middle of this week.

Video - 10 Days in Arkansas

Here is a short video showcasing the 10 day trip I took to Arkansas. Got to say that the bouldering around the Jasper, AR area has got to be some of the best climbing I have done in the States. Already planning a return trip next fall.

Unfortunately on the last day of the trip, I fell off the last move of Fred's Roof and strained my achilles tendon pretty bad. First injury in a while so all I can do is learn from it. The injury occurred because I threw desperately to the last jug on Fred's and landed just left of the pads. From now on I will always line up my landing zone and make sure I feel 100% before committing to a difficult, desperate move.

So now I am back in Denver and there is much to be done. Training for the alpine season will begin in the next few weeks. Got a lot of projects in the mountains and also high hopes of developing some new ones I have had my eye on!

All for now, 

JG

Update from the ARK

ARK so far...

Last Thursday, my buddy Tom C and I decided to roll out of Denver and head into the Ozark Mountains in northern Arkansas. The area around Horseshoe Canyon Ranch has gotten a good bit of publicity the last few years and it is about time I came down to see what all the fuss was about. Not disappointed at all - The bouldering here is amazing.

 Been here for a week now and am finally taking a full rest day. The climbing is so good that I literally can not stop. I got started bouldering on sandstone around Chattanooga, TN and it is a lot like the bouldering here. The boulders in ARK tend to all be on the steep side and the climbing much more dynamic. Come here with some good contact strength!

With two more full days of climbing left, hopefully a few more lines will fall so I can return next season to try all the others.

Getting a lot of footage so keep an eye out for an ARK bouldering short in the future. Here’s a few shots I’ve taken during the trip. 

Driving into HCR

Walking along the cliff line towards Ab Lounge

Mega classic - Glass Bowl

Staying motivated at Fred's Cave

Hidden gem back in the woods.... Daily Planet

Night session at HCR